2 wonderful days 

Hey all! Kate here. I am finally writing about our entry and stay in Santiago.

Yesterday was realllllllllly hot. We walked about 22km into the city. We arrived at 1pm through the city and some people even cheered for us and wished us congratulations! We entered in to the main plaza by the cathedral and took in our accomplishment. It felt surreal to be done.

mmm 

Then we went to our alburgue. We got a nice private room for our time here at a building next to a seminary. It felt appropriate for us.

We took a long sista, showered, and went to mass at the cathedral. We got into town too late for the daily pilgrim’s mass at noon but this was a nice simple service at 6pm. It is tradition to go hug the statue of Saint James. We did that and then went to confession. That was a first for me but I found it very powerful.

We then went to the pilgrim’s office and got our compostela. This is a certificate that we indeed did walk the camino. We had to show our credential that had all the stamps we accumulated over the month to prove that we walked. We then ran into our Camino friend Jesús. He is a wonderful, Spanish older gentleman who we have walked with for the past few days. We bonded over religion and our faith. He asked us to meet him at 11:30am the next day for something before the pilgrim’s mass but we didn’t understand what. 

Today we got up and had a breakfast of hot chocolate and churros! Edward has wanted this the whole camino and now I know why. Hot chocolate here is thick, rich, and a million times better than the stuff in the USA. Dip a churro in that….. yum!

We then did a little shopping and went to find Jesús. We found out that he was reading for the mass and wanted us to sit with him in the front of the church right by the altar!!! There were ar least 1,000 people there and we were in front! It was an honor, a gift, and a holy moment for us. The service was beautiful and then, because a group had donated money for it, the thurable swung. This is no ordinary thurable. It hangs from the ceiling and is about 4 feet tall. It takes around 6 men to pull a rope and, when lit, it swings the whole width of the cathedral. It was breathtaking to be so close to it and see the incense fill the space. I was so moved I started to cry. A wonderful nun saw me, kissed my forehead and prayed with me. We then, moved beyond words, went to eat with Jesús to say thank you to our friend.

 

Later in the day we met up with Jesús for a beer and said our goodbys. We then ran into other friends we made walking amd got to say adios to them. It was the perfect way to end our day.

This trip has been beyond amazing. God has,shpwn up in so many direct and indirect ways. I have cried in pain and wept tears of gratitude. I will never forget this month.

Tomorrow, back to the USA. 

The merging of the paths

Hey all. Kate here. As I write this we are 40km out from Santiago. Today we are staying is Aruza which is where the Camino del Norte meets with the Camino Frances. That means a lot more pilgrims in one space. 

In some ways I am not ready for the camino to be done. My feel FINALLY feel amazing. I can walk fast for long distances and I don’t have to stop to catch my breath on big hills. I feel strong and love to walk. 

On the other hand I am ready to go home. It has been a long trip and I yearn for my own bed and a day to just relax. 

Yesterday I took tome to process my feelings at one of the most amazing places I have ever seen. We stayed in Sobrado dos Moxes at the monastery Cistercian Order of the Close Observance (OCSO). . Part of this place was built in 952! Over the years parts were added but for around 200 years the land was seized from the monks and was left in disrepair. The monks now are trying to fix it up but, as you can see, the place is huge.

We stayed in the Pilgrim’s cloister and went to Vespers and Compline with the brothers. It was an amazing experience to be in such an old and sacred place. I know I will pray and give thanks in Santiago for this pilgimage but this felt like a time I could do so in a more quiet and intimate way. 

Tomorrow we walk on 20km more. One day closer to the goal.

Turning inland

Kate here! We have offically been doing this camino thing for 21 days and we have 8 days left to walk. It feels weird to think of not getting up early and walking for 6 to 8 hours a day. It will be a welcomed change, though. I love the camino but it is not an easy way to live.

Yesterday we walked 21km to Ribadeo. This signaled our last day walking on the coast. We had lunch on the beach and watched a guy catch an octopus! 

A nice view for lunch
We also passed from the region of Asturias to Galicia. Each region in Spain has its own culture and sometimes its own language. I am excited to see what Galicia has to offer.

Big cloud bank. Luckly, we didn’t get rained on

Today we walked 27km to Lourenzá. We hiked up a big ol’ mountain today but there is an even bigger one tomorrow.

Rolling hills of Galicia
The towns we are going through for the next few days are much smaller so we need to make sure to bring food with us just in case.

Tomorrow we climb one of those mountains
Overall, I feel good. My body can do this. The camino has turned into a mental game now. Every morning I wake up and think “can I do this again?”. The answer sometimes is not very cheery but it is always yes. Here is to 8 more days of yes.

Luarca and La Caridad

Hey all, Kate here. Tonight we are in La Caridad at a nice alburugue after walking 31km from Luarca. 

Luarca was an amazing city at the mouth of a river to the ocean. We got a wonderful double room and then went to the beach. We had a nice meal and Edward ate squid!

Coming into Luarca
Downtown Luarca
Edward on the beach

Today was a long but a relatively flat walk. It was sunny which was great because some of the trails are drying out. Many of the trails yesterday were just mud holes. 

Medieval ruins of a church
Crossing the mighty river

La Caridad is a small town away from the coast. Tomorrow is our last day on the coast. After that we turn inland toward Santiago. We calculate we have about 10 more days of walking. 

Short walk and a wonderful alburge

Hola amigos! Kate here. Today we bid farewell to Gijón which was really sad. It was an amazing city and a wonderful place to spend our anniversary. Last night we went to Mass and then watched 20 hot air baloons take off! Then we ate some tapas, drank some wine, and watched the sunset from out hotel room. It was a perfect evening.

Church of San Pedro in Gijón
The Balloons!
Sunset from our hotel room

Today, though, was not perfect. It was rainny and cold. The walk out of Gijón is full of busy roads and views of factories. Combine that with the rain and it would have been a mess. We decided to hop a bus and take it to the next town over called Avelés. We got wet walking 8k to our alburge but it was worth it. The place we are staying in is the old rectory of Iglesia de San Martín de Laspra. It is run by José who did our laundry, cooked us an amazing meal, and told us wonderful stories. It is only us and one other pilgrim here so it has been a quiet and restful evening. We even went to Mass again at the church for Pentecost.

Our friend Francy from Berlin and José who runs the alburge
Tomorrow we walk on but tonight we rest. 

Rain and a 32Km

(Kate here) this will be brief because I am exhausted but we did not post yesterday.

Yesterday we walked 25Km to Poo (an unfortunate name but it is pronounced Poe). It was our first day of walking in hard rain. We have been really lucky with weather so far. Yesterday our luck ran out. The clouds were so thick it was like pea soup.

Today was nicer out but it was the longst day I have ever walked. We went 20 miles or so and almost 60,000 steps. I am now going to sleep forever.

Walking and the beach

(Kate here!) I know Edward already posted today but I thought I would add my two cents. Yesterday we toured a church in San Vincent that was stunning and then ate some Paella. Soooooo good.

View from alburge in San Vincent
My feet are really feeling good now as we work up to consistant 30K days. Today we reached our beautiful alburge, showered and took a nap. We chose this place because it had a washer and dryer. Last night nome of our clothes dried so we wore wet stuff all day. It was not fun.

Tonight’s amazing alburge

We took a nap and then went down to the beach. The water was freezing but it was beautiful. They say it is good for sore feet tp put them in the salt water. We will see if that is true. 

The miracle of Santander

Kate here. Last night we stayed in an amazing alburge hosted by Fr. Ernesto. The alburge was created on his childhood home and is made as a place for pilgrims to rest and recouperate. There was even a dr. there to help those who hurt their legs and feet. The wine was amazing and the food was so yummy.

Today we started walking and I was hurting. My feet were sore, my legs were tight, and I was not happy. There was an amazing sunrise, though, so that was nice.

We walked on the coast and saw some amazing views. 


We then made it to the beach which was nice because it was soft to walk on. Walking on asphalt kills your feet and joints.


We  then waied for the ferry for about an hour to make it to Santander. I was not feeling well so I took my boots off and took some pain meds. After the ferry, I put my boots on and there was a miracle. My feet felt good! I had to talk a bit to the alburge and I felt amazing! I am so happy!

We met some great friends along the way. David and Katja are now our camino and beer buddies. We are staying at this wonderful alburge in Boo de Piélagos with them and a dew others. Life is good.

Trust the Camino

Kate here. This has been a rough 2 days for me. As we reached the end of our walk yesterday I had huge blisters form on both of my pinky toes. It was not plesant to 

say the least. When we got to our place for the night I laid down and almost refused to get back up. After a bit I rallied the strength to go shower and eat. Luckly we made a friend along the way who is a nurse from Colorado. She helped me care for my feet. I have learned to trust the process here. It all works out. I trust the Camino.

Today was rough starting with my feet but about an hour in I felt much better. Edward has been blessed with no foot troubles so he has been very patient with me. We walked on an amazing beach today along with fantaic rural country views. We ate a baguette and cheese for lunch and it might have been the best meal in the world.

Tonight we are at an amazing alburge with friends from so many countries. For all the pain, I really love the Camino.

To Pobeña

We really started walking today! I am waiting outside my alburge right now in Pobeña after walking around 15 miles. 

But let’s rewind. Last night we walked into downtown Bilbao and saw the Guggenheim and ate these huge, anazing sandwiches.

Today we had breakfast in the alburge and set off around 7:30am. The biggest issue was that the clothes we washed last night didn’t dry so we had them hanging from our pack most of the day.

The path was all cement and it was really hot today. We did see an amazing church but sadly it was closed. We had many people wish us “Buen Camino” as we walked and have made some friends waiting for our alburge to open. We also had our first costal view.

Overall we are tired but we feel good. I hope it continues.