(Edward here!) Some of the most interesting people we have met on the Camino have been the hosts of alburgues and houses of hospitality. Many of them got their start after walking the path themselves. Four of their stories stand out to me because they are remarkably similar while expressing different approaches toward faith and life.
Ernesto is a retired priest whose work among the shepherd villages in the Picos de Europa inspired him to travel the world learning about the distinctive spirituality of poor agricultural communities. He decided to purchase the abandoned lifelong home of his grandparents in Guemes and transform it into a pilgrim’s alburgue, which is now one of the most beloved stops on the Northern Way. For every group that passes through, he recounts the story of his journey and urges his guests to approach the Camino as a chance to experience an alternative way of life of solidarity and relationality.
José does not consider himself to be a religious person, but he is energized by serving others. He once left a high-paying job in finance to work with elders in a nursing home so that he could spend more of his time making others’ lives better. While walking the Camino, he realized that the most satisfying part of the experience was helping other pilgrims– aiding them with the language, sharing medical supplies, giving encouragement. He decided to establish a donations-only alburgue near Aviles that would welcome all pilgrims regardless of nationality, religious affiliation, or ability to pay. Noticing that his town’s church had an attached rectory that had sat empty for years, he offered to rent and restore it. He now works every day at his alburgue, never taking a day off because he feels nourished by the work.
His wife, Terín, was skeptical of the project at first, but quickly realized its significance. She began to see her work at the alburgue as an expression of her Catholic faith. While telling me about her sense of mission, she said to me, “Here in Spain, we have an expression: wherever God plants you, blossom! There is work to do in every place and every season. Wherever you are, there is a call.”
Last night, Kate and I stayed at the home of Karmela, a painter who opens her studio to six pilgrims each night. Karmela was inspired to such hospitality by her own walk on the Camino Frances, as well as a deep desire to live more in harmony with nature (needless to say, she is a big fan of Thoreau) and in line with her political ideals. Yesterday, Kate and I were her only guests, so we stayed up late drinking cider and discussing spirituality, art, anthropology, and the joys and challenges of maintaining an open house on the Camino. The house reflected Karmela’s artistic talent. Her paintings of the Camino hung on the walls, and each room offered a surprise (for example, the shower was designed to look like the prehistoric cave paintings in Ribadello!)
These hosts hold different religious positions and beliefs, but they all share a common pattern: the experience of active service and love for others on the Camino led to an embrace of a radical way of life of hospitality and integrity. As Kate and I pursue our own vocations going forward, we will treasure these examples and conversations.
Looking ahead, we have several lighter days as we approach the 100km mark. A week from today, we will be celebrating the end of our journey in Santiago de Compostela.
