Edward here! Sorry for the delay in posting this time around. We experienced what will likely be our three most intense days of walking on the Camino, with lots of hills and itineraries over 30km. Upon reaching our destinations, we wanted to do little but eat and sleep.
Yesterday was significant because the trail presented a decision: continuing on the coastal path, or splitting inland to Oviedo, the beginning of the Primitivo Camino, believed to be the oldest of the paths.
This split also marked the last time we would see some of our companions. Over the course of the Camino, you become familiar with pilgrims who are walking at a similar pace. Over the past two weeks, we have seen about a dozen familiar faces on and off. Sometimes we would walk together with them, and other times we would eat with them at the alburgues or run into them at cafes.
One of our closest friends on the way has been David, a factory worker from Austria. This is David’s eighth time on the Camino. He has walked most of the major routes. When we asked him what kept bringing him back, he remarked: “God has been good to me. I have a wonderful wife, a talented son, healthy parents, and everything I need to be comfortable. This is my way of giving thanks.”
David made friends with many of the other pilgrims through his kindness and mischievous humor. He would often pray with us along the way, and he gave us advice about good hostels and alternative routes. Yesterday, we said goodbye to him at the intersection as he made his way to the Primitive Route.
The rest of yesterday’s hike was difficult. The fog made it impossible to see more than a few meters ahead, and we climbed two substantial hills, one of which required an ascent of 430m. However, our destination, the port city of Gijón, was well worth the effort.
This is actually my second time in Gijón, a vibrant, active city. When I studied for a summer in León nearly ten years ago, I joined a group of classmates in a weekend getaway here. Given that Kate and I celebrated our fourth wedding anniversary yesterday, we decided to stay an extra day here in a hotel. We are getting lots of rest today, but we have also managed to fit in a fair amount of sightseeing. We strolled along the beach, enjoyed some breakfast tapas, explored the cathedral, and visited a museum featuring the excavation of a Roman bath house.
Tomorrow, our Camino continues! We are about halfway through our journey.