(Edward here!) One of the few disappointments of our time on the Camino so far has been the rarity of churches being open for viewing and praying.
Over the past two days, this has started to change! Last night, we stayed at a very sparce albergue run by a monastery in Cóbreces. This hostal included a remarkable benefit: an invitation to join the monks for Vespers and Compline.
Both services were magnificently beautiful. We tried our best to chant along with the brothers, who sang the psalms and prayers with heartful familiarity. Kate and I agreed that our favorite moment was during the Regina Caeli at the end of Compline, when the monks prayed most emotionally as a spotlight illuminated a statue of Mary. Afterwards, the abbot offered us a blessing and sprinkling of holy water.
Today, we found a beautiful small village chapel open along the way. We stopped there for our morning prayers. The morning light streamed through the stained glass window above the altar, with depictes the Holy Spirit and the Blessed Sacrament. We were grateful that this small town left open their chapel for pilgrims to enjoy.
At mid-day, we stopped in Comillas for coffee and walked through the city’s cathedral, which included some impressive Marian votive statues.
Another highlight of Comillas was walking past Gaudí’s Capricho. It was closed for a private event, but we caught a glimpse through the gate.
We are now staying in San Vicente de la Barquera, a fishing town. Tomorrow is our longest hike so far on the Camino. If all goes well, we’re going 30km (18.6 miles).
Buen camino!