The Dunars on the Camino

Edward here! Sorry for the delay in posting this time around. We experienced what will likely be our three most intense days of walking on the Camino, with lots of hills and itineraries over 30km. Upon reaching our destinations, we wanted to do little but eat and sleep.

Yesterday was significant because the trail presented a decision: continuing on the coastal path, or splitting inland to Oviedo, the beginning of the Primitivo Camino, believed to be the oldest of the paths.

This split also marked the last time we would see some of our companions. Over the course of the Camino, you become familiar with pilgrims who are walking at a similar pace. Over the past two weeks, we have seen about a dozen familiar faces on and off. Sometimes we would walk together with them, and other times we would eat with them at the alburgues or run into them at cafes. 

One of our closest friends on the way has been David, a factory worker from Austria. This is David’s eighth time on the Camino. He has walked most of the major routes. When we asked him what kept bringing him back, he remarked: “God has been good to me. I have a wonderful wife, a talented son, healthy parents, and everything I need to be comfortable. This is my way of giving thanks.”

David made friends with many of the other pilgrims through his kindness and mischievous humor. He would often pray with us along the way, and he gave us advice about good hostels and alternative routes. Yesterday, we said goodbye to him at the intersection as he made his way to the Primitive Route. 

The rest of yesterday’s hike was difficult. The fog made it impossible to see more than a few meters ahead, and we climbed two substantial hills, one of which required an ascent of 430m. However, our destination, the port city of Gijón, was well worth the effort.

This is actually my second time in Gijón, a vibrant, active city. When I studied for a summer in León nearly ten years ago, I joined a group of classmates in a weekend getaway here. Given that Kate and I celebrated our fourth wedding anniversary yesterday, we decided to stay an extra day here in a hotel. We are getting lots of rest today, but we have also managed to fit in a fair amount of sightseeing. We strolled along the beach, enjoyed some breakfast tapas, explored the cathedral, and visited a museum featuring the excavation of a Roman bath house.

Tomorrow, our Camino continues! We are about halfway through our journey.

(Kate here) this will be brief because I am exhausted but we did not post yesterday.

Yesterday we walked 25Km to Poo (an unfortunate name but it is pronounced Poe). It was our first day of walking in hard rain. We have been really lucky with weather so far. Yesterday our luck ran out. The clouds were so thick it was like pea soup.

Today was nicer out but it was the longst day I have ever walked. We went 20 miles or so and almost 60,000 steps. I am now going to sleep forever.

(Kate here!) I know Edward already posted today but I thought I would add my two cents. Yesterday we toured a church in San Vincent that was stunning and then ate some Paella. Soooooo good.

My feet are really feeling good now as we work up to consistant 30K days. Today we reached our beautiful alburge, showered and took a nap. We chose this place because it had a washer and dryer. Last night nome of our clothes dried so we wore wet stuff all day. It was not fun.

We took a nap and then went down to the beach. The water was freezing but it was beautiful. They say it is good for sore feet tp put them in the salt water. We will see if that is true. 

We had a smooth morning of walking through Colombres today. The villages we passed were quiet because it is Sunday, and the overcast and cool weather lent itself to pleasant hiking. Because our clothes didn’t quite dry from last night’s washing, we decided to stop a bit early and splurge on a room at a cozy alburgue in La Franca that offers laundry service. The proprietor is friendly and has a beautiful white cat named Luca.

(Edward here!) One of the few disappointments of our time on the Camino so far has been the rarity of churches being open for viewing and praying. 

Over the past two days, this has started to change! Last night, we stayed at a very sparce albergue run by a monastery in Cóbreces. This hostal included a remarkable benefit: an invitation to join the monks for Vespers and Compline.

Both services were magnificently beautiful. We tried our best to chant along with the brothers, who sang the psalms and prayers with heartful familiarity. Kate and I agreed that our favorite moment was during the Regina Caeli at the end of Compline, when the monks prayed most emotionally as a spotlight illuminated a statue of Mary. Afterwards, the abbot offered us a blessing and sprinkling of holy water. 

Today, we found a beautiful small village chapel open along the way. We stopped there for our morning prayers. The morning light streamed through the stained glass window above the altar, with depictes the Holy Spirit and the Blessed Sacrament. We were grateful that this small town left open their chapel for pilgrims to enjoy.

At mid-day, we stopped in Comillas for coffee and walked through the city’s cathedral, which included some impressive Marian votive statues.

Another highlight of Comillas was walking past Gaudí’s Capricho. It was closed for a private event, but we caught a glimpse through the gate.

We are now staying in San Vicente de la Barquera, a fishing town. Tomorrow is our longest hike so far on the Camino. If all goes well, we’re going 30km (18.6 miles).

Buen camino!

Kate here. Last night we stayed in an amazing alburge hosted by Fr. Ernesto. The alburge was created on his childhood home and is made as a place for pilgrims to rest and recouperate. There was even a dr. there to help those who hurt their legs and feet. The wine was amazing and the food was so yummy.

Today we started walking and I was hurting. My feet were sore, my legs were tight, and I was not happy. There was an amazing sunrise, though, so that was nice.

We walked on the coast and saw some amazing views. 

We then made it to the beach which was nice because it was soft to walk on. Walking on asphalt kills your feet and joints.

We  then waied for the ferry for about an hour to make it to Santander. I was not feeling well so I took my boots off and took some pain meds. After the ferry, I put my boots on and there was a miracle. My feet felt good! I had to talk a bit to the alburge and I felt amazing! I am so happy!

We met some great friends along the way. David and Katja are now our camino and beer buddies. We are staying at this wonderful alburge in Boo de Piélagos with them and a dew others. Life is good.

Kate here. This has been a rough 2 days for me. As we reached the end of our walk yesterday I had huge blisters form on both of my pinky toes. It was not plesant to 

say the least. When we got to our place for the night I laid down and almost refused to get back up. After a bit I rallied the strength to go shower and eat. Luckly we made a friend along the way who is a nurse from Colorado. She helped me care for my feet. I have learned to trust the process here. It all works out. I trust the Camino.

Today was rough starting with my feet but about an hour in I felt much better. Edward has been blessed with no foot troubles so he has been very patient with me. We walked on an amazing beach today along with fantaic rural country views. We ate a baguette and cheese for lunch and it might have been the best meal in the world.

Tonight we are at an amazing alburge with friends from so many countries. For all the pain, I really love the Camino.

(Edward here!) Yesterday was a doozie! We encountered our most rugged trek so far, with lots of elevations and declines. Fortunately, strenuous climbing usually grants the reward of stunning views.

Today was a bit easier, and we’re already starting to notice our bodies adapt to 30km walks and steady climbing. 

(From Edward) Today’s itinerary offered a surprising amount of variety. Upon leaving Pobleña at the crack of dawn, we braved another grueling stair climb. We were immediately rewarded with a stunning view of the ocean as the sun rose. 

We passed forests, small villages, and pastures of cows. We took a terrifying shortcut that amounted to walking on the thin shoulder of a highway.

The endpoint suggested by our guidebook and app was Castro-Urdiales, a city filled with historical sights (evidence of human settlement here reaches back to 12000 BCE) and natural beauty. Once we reached downtown, we ate breakfast with fellow pilgrims from Barcelona, Croatia, and Germany and prayed at the Gothic church Santa María de la Asunción.

We decided to walk further to get a head start on tomorrow’s route of 30km. The alburgue which we had hoped to sleep was unexpectedly shut down, but we found a small cabin at a nearby campsite for only 20 euros. We are now eating sandwiches in the shadow of a green mountain as we prepare for more adventure tomorrow.

It’s Edward here! Kate has been quite diligent about posting, so I’ll add just a few highlights before recapping today’s journey. Kate has covered most of the exciting parts, so these are somewhat specific to my own interests.

The Home Town of Ignacio Ellacuría

Yesterday, the first major town we reached after leaving Bilbao was Portugalete, which happens to be tbe birth town of Ignacio Ellacuría, a prominant theologian in the 70s and 80s whose courageous leadership of the Universidad Centroamericana “José Simeón Cañas” in El Salvador during the country’s civil war led to his martrydom in 1989. Ellacuría was a tireless advocate of the poor. His theological work focused on the relationship between salvation and human history. I studied Ellacuría in depth this semester, so it was a treat to be able to visit his hometown. 

Walking Infrastructure Paradise

For the trek from Portugalete and Pobeña, we walked on the best bike/walk infrastructure I’ve ever seen. It was almost like a freeway for non-cars. 

At certain points, it was quite busy with walkers of all ages, most of whom were walking faster than we were. We were going along at a solid pace of 4 miles per hour, and we were being passed by elders with canes and families with young children. Clearly, a walking culture to envy!

Generosity

Even just in our first few days, it’s remarkable how much generosity makes the Camino possible. The albergues are funded by donations and staffed by volunteers who often provide free meals. Local residents greet us warmly and give us advice about what to expect ahead (and show endless patience in putting up with my rusty Spanish). This journey is only possible because of the kindness and hospitality of those along the way. We have much to be grateful for already.